20/6  V8 Supercars rolled into Darwin. 22 semi trailers in a convoy followed by a dozen or so official cars. Blasting air horns all along Stuart Hwy, quite a sight.

Head towards Kakadu NP and stop at Mary River Wilderness Retreat. Run by people from Lakes Entrance. Book unpowered site near the River for 2 nights.  Drive to The Bark Hut Inn (2 kms away) as we want to book a cruise and there is no reception at Mary River. Obviously should have been there last night.

  It’s 30+ so back for a swim in the nice pool and happy hour on the verandah with a couple from Tasy.

21/6 Up early for an 8km walk. Travel through a variety of terrain. Bamboo forest, billabongs open woodlands and along the river. Lots of different birds -  parrots, kingfishers, hawks. Heard some bellowing and thought it may be buffalo, but came across a few Brahman cattle. The place is crawling with wallabies. Walking along the river bank you would think it was the Murray. Apparently the Mary River is fresh water with a sandy bottom, whereas other rivers in the region are tidal and have muddy banks. Also the Mary River has the highest concentration of crocs, both fresh and salt, in the world. Despite this we didn’t see any. Back to the pool to cool down. Because it’s so hot and you can’t swim anywhere as you could at Litchfield, might be tempted to stay at places with a pool. Drove back to Corroboree Tavern to do a sunset cruise on the Corroboree Billabong.  The Tavern has a couple of buffalo, wild boars and crocs in cages. The salt water croc is about 5 meters long. He’s massive. The cruise was really interesting.  Plenty of birds, including Jabiru's and some crocs.

Big salty about 4.5 meters just cruised along beside our boat. He wasn’t the least bit intimidated by us.

Students from Maffra Secondary School arrived to spend the night. Travelling in the area for a week.

22/6 Decide to stay another day and drive into the Mary River NP. 100km round trip. Couzens lookout was a misnomer, couldn’t see much due to trees in the way. Next stop, Rockhole, was very similar to Corroboree Billabong, in fact may have been the other end. Mary River cruises leave from there. Up to Shady Park (not much shade). Interesting spot.  A barrier has been built to stop tidal salt water going upstream. Small fish school on either side, and Barramundi move upstream with the tide to feed on them. Quite a few people fishing. I had a go and hooked a couple of small barras, and had my line cut by a couple of bigger ones (didn’t actually see them). They have razor sharp protrusions on their gills. Three quite big ones were caught while we were there. They have to be between  55 cm  and 1 mtr to keep.  Stopped at Mistake Billabong, which was well named, as not much to see. However the real mistake was Bird Billabong. We drove in to find it was a 4.5 km walk from the carpark and the walk was closed anyway. Why don’t the put the closed signs at the beginning of the road in, not at the end. Mary River Billabong on the way back looked really nice, although not as open and easy to see as others. I had a couple of casts, but the pool and happy hour ($3 beer and wine, $4 Guinness) beckoned.

23/6  Drove to Jabiru. On the way we crossed the West Alligator river and saw a big croc sitting on the bank.

Jabiru has an nice bakery, although the Buffalo pie was a bit salty.  The Mercure Crocodile Hotel is quite impressive. Obviously shaped like a crocodile with rooms around the outside and pool in the centre. Went to the visitor centre, as we had to purchase park passes for $25 per head. Quite a bit to see there including a move on Kakadu.  Had a nice meal at the caravan park restaurant which is next to the pool. Vindaloo lamb shanks for Rose and stuffed mushrooms for moi.

24/6 Drove 20kms to Malabanjbanjdju. Billabong and walking track. Pretty billabong with a 4mtr salty sitting on the bank. 

Went to do the walk but surprise- the track was closed. Back to the billabong and the croc was no longer sunning itself on the bank. Which meant we had no idea where it was. We were a bit tentative walking around bird watching after that. After lunch headed up to the East Alligator River area.  Stopped at Cahills Crossing, where a week or so ago a woman’s car go washed away while she was driving across and she was rescued by a tour boat. Crocs apparently gather at the change of tide. We only saw one. Then on to Ubirr. Some amazing rock formations.

Sandstone slabs look like they have been stacked on top of each other. Due to a lot of burning off it was quite hazy which made for a very orange sun. Lots of rock art sites, supposedly many thousands of years old. 250 climb to the top of an escarpment for a great spot to watch the sunset, along with at least a hundred other tourists.

Spooky drive back in the dark. There is burning off all around the area so there was lots of smoke and quite a lot of flame visible.

25/6 Back out to Cahills Crossing to catch the high tide which is supposed to be the best time to see the crocs come in to fed on fish moving upstream. Had a fish for a couple of hours, but no luck again, and only saw a couple of crocs.

There was a couple fishing in a very small tinney which seemed to be tempting fate, although they did catch a good sized barra. We did a really nice walk through the sandstone country and back along the river. Some of the formations are absolutely stunning. Pretty hot going and unfortunately nowhere safe to swim, so had to come back to the pool at the park.

26/6 Planned to have a lazy day around the pool, but ended up driving down to Muirella where there is a campground and a walk. Walk closed (becoming an annoying habit) due to buffalo in the area. Drove along 4x4 track into Sandy billabong which was quite large, but not a lot of birdlife. On the way back called in at Nourlangie. Quite a few different spots to go to in here. We only did a short walk around the rock art galleries. The art itself was nothing special but the rock overhangs the were painted in were amazing. Was going to cook chicken for tea but Rose saw the menu at the restaurant and that ended that idea. Chilli seafood fettuccini for her, twice cooked duck for me. Definitely ate too much seeing we didn’t have lunch until 3pm. A Ranger talk on buffalo tonight was very interesting. They were introduced by the British from Indonesia as a food source for a northern garrison. When the poms left they released about 90. At one stage there were 10’s of thousands roaming through the wetlands. Overseas tourists were encouraged from the 1920’s to travel over for big game hunting – buffalo and crocs. Buffalo don’t seem to be a major problem, but thousands of feral pigs.

18/6 As nice a place as Darwin is, it has a major problem with littering. Everywhere you go there are bottles, cans, plastic and general rubbish. A real shame.  We walked in the Casuarina Coastal Reserve. Crossed a bridge over a tidal river with the mandatory croc cage and walked up to the Darwin Surf Club.

At one stage there were hundreds of Kytes (birds of prey) soaring above us. Then all of a sudden they disappeared.    Walked back along a lovely beach. It’s a beautiful day with no wind, 30+ degrees, but wait;  a sign advising against swimming because of the possibility of box jellyfish.  Not safe anywhere.

Did a bit more sightseeing  along the coast. Bought a heap of seafood for dinner – oysters, prawns and octopus.

Watched the Blues knock of the Maroons in game 2 of Origin. Plenty of barracking going on in the park.

19/6 Last day in Darwin. Dropped Rose off at the Shopping plaza, while I bought a few bits and pieces to install a fan at the back of the fridge. Struggles a bit to keep drinks cold enough in the heat. Rose got a tip on a store closing that was selling heaters cheap.  Just what we need in this heat, although it can be used just as a fan. Back to Mindil Market for some yummy food.  Also bought a piece of aboriginal art I saw last time.

Late night swim back at the park as its still in the high 20’s at 9pm.

Visited an art gallery with an exhibition of kaleidoscopes. They were incredibly intricate in design. The makers were there and gave us a run down on the various types.

17/6 Had to move sites this morning, then spent the day wandering around Darwin city. Visited the Library, where they had an interesting   exhibition on a guy named Edward Reichenbach (Ryko) a 21 yo, who 100 years ago rode a bike from Adelaide to Darwin. Took him 28 days, which was a new record. He was a photographer and recorded his trip.

Stopped in at Parliament House and briefly sat in on a Legislative council session regarding speed limits-riveting stuff. Back to camp for a well earned dip in the pool. Went into a number of galleries. There is an enormous amount of aboriginal art on sale, some fantastic, some not so great. Can't imagine more than a small proportion sells.

15/6  Checked out staying at park longer. Unfortunately we will have to move sites as this one is booked. Walked around  the botanic gardens then to the Museum/Art Gallery via a costal walk. Interesting info on cyclone Tracey.  Called into the Casino. I wathched 1^st half of the footy while Rose lost our retirement funds on the pokies. Mindil market was similar to yesterdays.  Great food stalls. Some great aboriginal artists painting, wish I had bought a piece, will try to find were else they might be available. Hundreds of people watching the sunset on the beach. Beats Broomes dodgy “Stairway to the moon”. Found out pies lost to Footscray, what a disgrace.

16/6 Lazy morning around the van. Drove to the Fishermans Walf and bought some local fish for tea.

9/6  Large group of young Asians staying at the park, apparently work at a Sandalwood plantation nearby. I try a spot of fishing at “The Arches”.  No luck surprisingly. People claim a small bull shark is in the main waterhole there. Sure enough I spot it, about 2 foot long. They say bigger ones are in the Daly River, apparently they can tolerate fresh water. Not only crocs to worry about. Sit down to watch Pies v Dees. Pretty ordinary game, Pies field kicking pathetic as usual, but get away with a win. Tea at the parks rest/café.  Chicken Kiev, not too bad.

10/6 Off again, stop at Adelaide River and visit the war cemetery. Pretty sad to see all the plaques and the young ages of the servicemen. Also a lot of civilians killed during Darwin bombings. The Post Office was hit killing all the staff. Copy of a letter sent by the PO supervisor the day before the bombing to his family assuring them he was OK and nothing to worry about. On to Litchfield NP and Wangi Falls campground. Lucky to get a site. Pretty impressive falls and pool, but daytrippers everywhere. A bit too commercial. We drive to “The Cascades”. Walk along the river upstream to falls and pools. Wow. Great spot. Have our own infinity pool all to ourselves. On the way back we loose the track and get a bit lost, but luckily see another couple and get back on. While I’m BBQing Threadfin salmon for tea, (no I didn’t catch it) Rose sees a wild pig at the back of our van. That and dingoes howling, where’s Harry Butler when you need him.

11/6 Still in Litchfield. Visited Greenant Creek/Tjaetaba Falls.  Small pool at top of waterfall. Longish uphill walk so few people there.  Bluey Rockhole, a number of small pools in a cascade, quite a lot of people and little kids as close to carpark. Florence Falls, 135 steps down, young pommie guy jumped from top of falls, Rose got a photo. All great spots to cool off. Back at camppark, evening talk by ranger. After wet season they have to remove saltwater crocs from the Wangi Falls pool. Problems with feral animals and arsonists in the Park.

12/6 Walker Creek . Nice walk along the creek. 8 walkin tent sites spread along each with its own swimming hole. Back for a snorkel at Wangi. Found bones on the bottom – croc food? Panicked when I couldn’t see Rose anywhere, though the worst for a minute, then spotted her snorkel on the other side of the waterhole. Relief, won’t have to cook own tea tonight. Rose wanted to go to the Cascades again before we leave the Park. She finds her perfect waterhole, not too deep and a sandy bottom. Full moon tonight, dingoes howling. Easter eggs tomorrow?

13/6 No eggs – bugger. Stopped at the Termite Mounds on the way out of Litchfield NP. Some woppers up to 2 meters high. Set up in Discovery Tourist C‘van park in Darwin. Caught bus into city only cost $1. Had a look around waterfront area, they have created a nice swimming area with grassy surrounds. Stopped at Browns Mart Theatre while waiting for the bus home.  Woman there a dead ringer for the Queen. 3 drinks later we catch the bus. Interesting conservation with an aboriginal guy on the bus. Rose told him I had a bit of a koorie blood in me.

14/6 Restless night. Didn’t realise we were so close to Darwin airport. Planes taking off all night. Went to market at Parap, a suburb of Darwin. Amazing range of food stalls, fresh fruit and clothing. Smells of various foods cooking were very appertising. Sampled a couple. Apparently this market is nowhere as big as the Mindil market we are going to tomorrow.  Sat around the pool for the afternoon.

5/6 Walk down to Katherine River at the back of caravan park before we head off. Decide to go to Edith Falls for a look. Great spot and decide to book into campground. Terrific waterhole close by for swimming. Waterfall on far side. Water temp perfect for a cool off, which we do.  Deserved afternoon nap after which we go for a snorkel. Water very deep. Variety of fish ( see a big barra couple of feet long) and a few turtles and fortunately no crocs. NP so no fishing. We later see a croc trap in the river which doesn’t fill us with confidence, however its obviously a very popular swimming spot with lots of day drippers.  Decide to stay another night. Lots of cane toads hopping around after dark. 

6/6  2.6 km walk  which goes to the “upper pool”. Which also has a waterfall. Hard to imagine a much better spot, perhaps a sandy beach would improve it. Stop to swim for an hour or so. Lots of daytrippers around. Busload of aboriginal kids fascinated by one of the rooftop campers and a few climb the ladder for a better look, much to the surprise of the owner. Snorkel again after lunch, although after a chat with another camper Rose a bit wary about crocs. Grab a big turtle (12 inches) by the shell and get a bit of a ride. See huge catfish. Undecided where to go next as it’s the long weekend and we hear Litchfield might be pretty busy with locals from Darwin. Decisions, decisions.  Might have to think about it over a beer.  Chat to German couple while BBQing, they are travelling around Oz for 12 mths, hope to extend their visa to get in SA and Tazy.

7/6 Sorry to leave Edith Falls, might have to stay again on our way back down. Decide to stay at Pine Creek on Stuart Hwy. The Lazy Lizard Tavern.  Site next to two young families, cute little kids want to see inside the avan.   Drive out to Umbrawarra Gorge. Do some rock hopping and come to lovely waterhole. Home to a water monitor, lets us get quite close. Tough walk/scramble back to car.  Fundraising quiz night  at Tavern for young local who lost legs in a car accident on way home from work. Few drinks and a pizza. Pretty ordinary quiz result.  Couldn’t even get “the boy from Bowrell” – embrassed.  No music questions unfortunately. We should have smuggled in an iphone.

8/6 Wake to the news a guy taken by a croc from his boat in front of his family at Kakadu. Puts the wind up us a bit. Pack up and visit local market.  As one of the quiz questions indicated the population of Pine Creek is about 600, unsurprisingly not a very big market. Bought a nut and date cake and chilli relish. Pitch camp at Douglas Daley Tourist Park. On road in hectares of mahogany plantations, and pasture cut for hay. Not what we expected to see up here. Drive to a couple of nice water holes but a bit wary after this mornings news. Also sign says no swimming. Cool off in a little area of running water but don’t stay in long. Go out to Douglas hot springs. Water 60 degrees in spots, can see it bubbling up through the sand. Cooler in other bits. Only shallow but pleasant to sit in.  Might stay an extra day so I can watch the Pies v Dees. Too bad Rob’s not here.

31/5  Great day at the footy with Rob and Anne.  Bought tickets at Info centre, concession, woo hoo! Rob had to pay full price, wouldn’t accept his senior card. Picturesque  ground.  Sat on the grass on the wing, atmosphere like a country game, although about 5000 spectators.  Had to barrack for the dees to support  Rob.  They looked good for a while, but no chockies.  A couple of dodgy umpiring decisions didn’t help. Back to caravan park for a swim and consolation ale.

1/6  Packed up and off to the Desert Park. Very interesting, well set up. Nocturnal area particularly good, quolls and bilby’s and lots of little mousey critters.  Lots of aviary’s with wide variety of birds.  Free camp at Taylors Creek.  Like Burke St.  About 40 vans squeezed in.  Looked like they’d been there most of the day.  Cows mooing and birds tweeting doesn’t fill with confidence about a good nights sleep.

2/6 Inconsiderate bastards packing up about 4am.(no not Teeses)  No hope of sleep in.                                 Head to the Devils Marbles, quick 15 min walk. Last time we visited it was raining. Wycliff
Springs for petrol top up. It’s the local UFO centre. Pretty corney, although Rob seemed impressed with the alien in the glass case. Lunch at Renner Springs,  6 dimos for $2, about all they were worth. Overnight at Daley Waters.  Pretty busy and put into the overflow area.  Happy hour at the pub, girls had red monaro cocktail. Basically a raspberry slushy.  Great pub with entertainment of sorts, a bush balladeer.  Bar lined with bras and knickers, Anne was reluctant to add her red bra to the collection.

3/6. Grumpy again. Backpackers off in their bus at some ridiculous hour. Filled gas bottle for $17, good value.  Off to Mataranka and Elsey NP. Stayed there on last trip. Sign up warning not to swim because of crocs, although lady at the campground  claimed rangers had not got around to removing sign, and she was off for a swim. Didn’t see her again but I think that was a coincidence. Walked to Roper river waterfall  8kms. Rose reckons she was tricked into the long walk. Pretty hot but great swim at the end. Spa pool at the billabong and rock pool at the falls, although a bit nervous about crocs. Went for swim at Mataranka hot springs. Very relaxing after a long walk. Rob impressed with the French backpackers swimming there. Apparently he studied French for 6 years, but no help at all. Nice and quiet back at the campground. Lots of feral donkeys in the area as there were last time. Hee hawing during the night.

4/6 Walk down to the river first thing. Peaceful and very still, with kangaroos drinking on the edge. Packed up and drove to Bitter springs, only a few kms away. A little more natural setting than Mataranka and water seemed a bit warmer. Back into Mataranka for morning tea. Good milkshake and yummy scones with jam & cream. Good bye to Teeses as they are turning left at Katherine towards the west. Sorry to see them go, they have been great company. (well Anne has been anyway.) In to Katherine info centre and who should we bump into, bloody Teeses. Can’t get rid of them.   Drop into Centrelink to see if our health care cards have been reapproved. Yes, Woo Hoo. Set up camp at Shady Trees CP and into town to shop. Rose not fussed about staying more than a night as we’ve done to gorge cruise before and the girl at the info centre wasn’t overly enthusiastic about kayaking there. Might duck out to gorge first thing in the morning and do a walk before we head off to Litchfield NP.