26/7 Head to Atherton for quick look,  and on to Mareeba where my cousin lives. We drop the van off as Allan is in Cairns till later in the day, and go for a look see around the area. Lunch at “Coffee World” which is a busy tourist spot. They have dozens of different types of coffee for sale, yummy chocolates and the usual souvenirs. We call in for a tasting at a the Golden Drop Mango winery. They had lots of different flavoured liqueurs to try, although most weren’t to our liking. Back to Allan’s where I find him tending his bees. We have a good catch-up, meet his daughter and family, go out to dinner then come back and drink lots of scotch. Allan’s right into local politics. He does a bit for Bob Katter, and stood for Hansen’s One Nation a few years ago, so it’s obvious where his political leanings are. Made for a lively discussion as the grog flowed, and he popped out for a joint. He offered to take me for a ride on his Harley ( he’s a member of the Vietnam Vets Motorcycle Club), but I declined. Maybe on the way back. We spend some time looking at some info Allan has on both sides of the family. Appears we are related to the first white girl born in Melbourne in 1840. I'll get copies made to follow up.We're persuaded to visit Cooktown seeing we’ve come this far, so we’ll head up in the morning.

27/7 260 km drive to Cooktown. Last time I drove this road 35 years ago, it was a very rough dirt road which just about shook our van to bits, now it’s bitumen all the way. Pleasant  to be driving through mountain ranges for a change, after all the flat of the centre. Some quite rugged peaks to be seen, and incredible rock/boulder formations at the Black Mountain NP. Cooktown is on the coast at the mouth of the Endeavour River and is surrounded by hills. Some parts look a bit like the Prom. Incredible 360 degree view from the top of the lighthouse hill.

I’d hate to try and ride a bike up the steep road. On the way down Rose takes me for a supposed short walk to a bay which turns out to be a steep billy goat track through rock strewn rainforest. The lovely beach at the bottom is some consolation, although no swimming of course -bloody crocs.

28/7 Drive out to a couple of waterfalls to the north of Cooktown.  Not a patch on what we have previously seen, but a nice drive nevertheless.

After lunch we visit the local info centre which has a terrific reptile display, including samples of all the venomous snakes that live in the region. It included a magnificent stuffed orange Tipan well over 2 metres, which is the most venomous snake in the world. We had a walk around the attached botanic gardens, then off for a visit to the James Cook Museum which is in a converted convent. Very interesting displays including the anchor and a cannon off the Endeavour.

Did a bit of general sightseeing around Cooktown, which not surprisingly has lots of plaques and monuments on Captain Cook. The CBD is a bit run down and most of the businesses are for sale (a common occurrence in towns up this way).Including a beautiful old bank building, which would make a great house with views across the river and ocean.
                                            

29/7 Head back to Mareeba. Stop for a better look at the Black Mountains which consists of spectacular volcanic hills of big dark boulders that look like they have been dumped there, and are completely different to the surrounding hills.

It's said that whole herds of cattle have disappeared amongst the boulders, and the mountains are the home of the mysterious Cooktown Lion.
Call into the historic Lions Den Hotel a few kms off the highway, just in time to see a passing circus truck with a monkey in the back, stuck on the side of the road. Needed a Roadtrain to pull it out. Looking through their little museum we notice that the original owners had the surname Ross, mums maiden name. I better do some digging to see if they were any relation. Not surprisingly the pubs for sale.

Stop at Lakeland Downs where the relations had a peanut farm and where Greg and I visited 35 years ago on our travels. Back at cousin Allan’s place for the night. Unfortunately he gets held up coming back from Cairns due to an accident, so only limited opportunity to get back into the interesting discussions of the other night.

30/7 Awake to see hot air balloons floating overhead.  Morning coffee/hot choc with a few of Allan’s RSL mates before we had off.  We decide to overnight at Murray Falls south of Tully. Stayed there a few years ago and loved it. Beautiful spot where the river runs over large smooth boulders. Had a quick swim in the cold water,

followed by port and chocolate around the fire.

31/7 Head further sth and  stop at Cardwell. Great view over to nearby Hinchenbrook Island. We decide at the last minute to go to Magnetic Island, as Orpeous Island at $2500 per person a night is booked out. Bugger. We can get the van onto a barge from Townsville  and camp on Maagnetic. We manage to book into Bungalow Bay park, the only van park on the island. Turns out to be a bit of a hostel/backpacker spot but doesn’t seem to rowdy. I spoke too soon,  a game of coconut bowls has just started, with much cheering.